James Halliday Wine Companion 2019

 

Premium Reserve Single Vineyard Denmark Riesling 2017

This takes the best of the flavours of its Premium Block Sibling, tunes some up, some down, ending up with a masterclass in a glass. Here, pure Rose’s lime juice flavours set for the mouthwatering reactions to soar and resulting in a convulsed grab for the glass to be sure everything is as good as it seems to be – and it is.


Premium Reserve Single Vineyard Frankland River Shiraz 2015

Matured for 24 months in French oak (40% new). The fragrant bouquet has plenty to say, with red and black cherry/berry fruits standing over the French oak, a dominance continuing into and through the length of the juicy palate until the aftertaste – when it does take its place.

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Premium Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Matured for 24 months in French oak (40% new). The Finest of fine print on the label does say the wine is from the Great Southern region (not Denmark), which is simply the name of the business. It’s got depth and the strength of good cabernet from the region, framed by quality French oak, finishing with good tannins.

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Premium Block Selection Riesling 2017

The impact of this wine in the mouth is amazing, so rich you momentarily look for a statement regarding oak, putting other eastern Australian Rieslings of this price into rapid retreat. It is layered with luscious tropical and citrus fruits, needing no cellaring, just open throat consumption.

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Premium Reserve Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2017

A 51/49% blend, matured in French oak for 3 months (25% new). The game changes radically here, thanks in no small measure to the barrel fermentation and maturation. The difference in the blend proportions from the Premium Block Selection almost certainly points to serious fruit selection of better parcels.

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Premium Reserve Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2016

Matured for 10 months in French oak (50% new). Has had little difficulty in meeting the 50% new oak on its terms and hasn’t blinked. It’s luscious and rich, the accent on ripe stone fruit tempered only by citrussy acidity; the finish is as long as it is clean. A candidate for drinking, not cellaring or talking about.

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Premium Block Selection Shiraz 2015

Matured for 12 months in French oak (25% new). Good depth and hue, paradoxically a touch better than the Reserve. It has lively, medium-bodied, cool-grown black cherry with a generous sprinkling of spice, French oak intersecting with the fruit from start to finish. Over-delivers in this price bracket, typical Lake House, fine tannins.